Interlining

Interlinings

Properties of Interlining

In these days of energy efficiency you may not be aware of something that is primarily used to enhance window treatments but also adds to the insulating properties. Similar in feel to a flannel blanket, interlining is an extra layer of fabric, usually cotton, placed between the main fabric and the lining.

Before I started making curtains I hadn’t heard of interlining but now it has become a very important part of my business. There are many beautiful fabrics that on their own would produce curtains that are thin and lifeless, but by adding a layer of interlining the ‘feel’ of the fabric changes dramatically and the curtains become thick and sumptuous. This extra layer however not only adds to the handle of the fabric but because of the increases in the thickness it therefore makes it more insulating.

Through my own experience I know this to be true. Our lounge window, which is a large square bay and faces north, has interlined blinds. On a winters morning when I raise the blinds you can feel the difference in the air temperature between the warm room and the cold window- and that is with modern double glazing, if you had old draughty windows you would notice the difference even more.

What are the different types of interlining?

There are three different types of interlining available, two made from Cotton (Bump and Domett) and the third from Polyester (Saril).

Bump

This is the thickest interlining and is loosely woven fabric made from around 80% cotton and 20% mixed synthetic fibres. It should be used pre-shrunk as the high cotton content has a tendency to shrink in the damp atmosphere around windows. Bump produces the best looking interlined curtains as it drapes beautifully and is especially suitable for silk, however it is also the hardest to work with as the loose weave results in an unstable fabric that moves and sheds fibres easily. The typical weight of bump is 400g/m 2 with a thickness of 0.5mm (1/4″)

Domett

This interlining is a heavily brushed 100% cotton twill fabric slightly thinner than Bump and as you can see from the top picture it is available in different weights. It is relatively easy to work with but that does mean that the drape isn’t as good as Bump. Most of the interlined curtains I have made have used Domett as it works with many different types of fabrics. The lightweight Domett is particularly suitable for blinds and other areas where the fabric will be pleated such as swags & tails. Domett weight can be from 160g/m 2 to 300g/m 2 with a thickness of a few millimetres.

 

Saril

Saril is a synthetic cheaper alternative to the cotton interlinings however as it doesn’t have the drape qualities, and I wouldn’t recommend using it unless necessary. It is not a woven fabric but stitch bonded- the fibres are joined together with rows of small stitches, and comes in similar weights to the cotton alternatives. The major advantage of Saril over Bump or Domett is that it doesn’t shrink so if interlining is required when there is a lot of moisture (kitchen, bathroom or damp house) you would need to use Saril.

 

A new interlined based product has been developed that bonds Saril to the back of normal lining. The resulting fabric speeeds up construction time, but as it so stiff it is recommended that it should only be used for Roman blinds. I haven’t used this interlining myself but have some samples, I personally think that the amount of extra time taken to attach the interlining to the lining by hand is minimal and to achieve a far better result is much more important.

Slightly different construction techniques are needed to incorporate the interlining into the soft furnishings which is why interlined curtains have a higher price, but in my opinion the finished results are far superior.
 

As you can probably tell I am a fan of interlined curtains and blinds. Although they take longer to make I always find that curtains hang better and blinds have a softer edge.

Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you want any further information about interlining curtains or if you are interested in having some made.

Footnote

Don’t get interlining mixed up with interfacing. Interfacing is used in dressmaking to strengthen areas such as collars and facings. It is a much thinner fabric usually made from bonded fibers, tends to be fusible and is very different to interlining.


Comments

Interlining — 90 Comments

  1. We’ve discover quite a few great things here. Absolutely value book-marking for revisiting. We surprise how a bunch try you add to generate such a amazing informative web page.

  2. can I use bump in the construction of patchwork bags or is it not suitable. I had some polyester bump and did not pre shrink it as I thought polyester did not shrink. Many thanks

    • Cotton bump could be used for the construction of patchwork bags provided that you don’t intend to wash them as the cotton content makes it very prone to shrinkage – which is why it isn’t recommended for use in a damp environment such as a bathroom or kitchen. However if you have a polyester bump ( usually called Saril) shrinkage shouldn’t be a problem as polyester doesn’t shrink.

      I would suggest that you try a small sample first to ensure that you achieve the desired effect.

      Kate

  3. i have a beautiful silk fabric which I would like to make a roman blind with, I am really keen for it to look it’s most luxurious and would like to use bump interlining, however I see that you recommend domit, which would be better for the best looking and ease of making myself? Does domit give an inferior look or would a 300g be a good alternative?

    • The main reason for using a domett instead of bump is the thickness of the blind when it folds up. If your blind doesn’t have too many pleats or you are happy with how bulky it will be once finished, bump should be OK.

      Domett doesn’t give an inferior look and one of 300g could be a good alternative. I must admit that I prefer working with domett as I find bump is less stable and tends to produce a lot of fibres around the room.

      Good luck with your blind.

  4. Is it possible to handwash Dommett before using it to deal with the old house/shrinkage issue?
    Could I then use it with new Sanderson glazed cotton fabric and dry clean the resulting curtains if we need to?
    Thank you.

    • Hello Julia,

      If you were to hand wash domett I am not sure of the results, it may become distorted and possibly un-usable. It is recommended to dry clean domett, but this is probably assuming that it is already part of a curtain. You could try washing a sample, measuring it before and after to see the difference.

      You can purchase pre shrunk domett from Merrick & Day, http://www.merrick-day.com/acatalog/Interlining.html , but this is still prone to a small amount of shrinkage. The best solution would be to use a saril which shouldn’t shrink because it’s made from man made fibres.

      I would recommend visiting your local curtain fabric shop to have a look and feel of the different interlinings available, if possible take a sample of the Sanderson fabric to see how the layers work together.

      • Many thanks. I am hopeful that the preshrunk would be good enough – I prefer the idea of cotton – but will take it all along to a shop to buy the actual lining and ask at that point.

  5. Hi I have new ready made Laura Ashley curtains and I am going to change them to eyelets which I have done before and want to interline them which I have not done before, I can use the existing ready made headings and take the string out or take the heading off and use the eyelet Buckrum tape. which Interlining would you use? and could the Saril with the lining be suitable as I am very able to hang and dress curtains. thanks Ingrid

    • Hello Ingrid,
      I wouldn’t use the heading tape already on the curtains, the eyelet buckram tape would be better as it is designed to stiffen and support the fabric for eyelets.

      Without knowing the fabric your curtains are made from it’s difficult to suggest an interlining, I always prefer a medium weight domett as this is easiest to use and tends to hang well. The saril with lining is designed for use in blinds and is difficult to work with so I would avoid it for your curtains.

      Kate

  6. I have some handwoven fine wool from which to make Roman blinds for a bay window in our house overlooking the beach. I want to provide the best insulation for our old sash windows .what interlining would you recommend?

    • Hello Janet,

      Because it’s recommended to use natural fibres together ideally you would choose an interlining such as cotton domett. However I’m concerned that because the windows are old sash ones close to the beach the damp environment may cause the cotton to shrink. A saril interlining with man made fibres my be better as even a pre-shrunk cotton domett is still prone to shrinkage.

      Regardless of the type of interlining I would recommend a lightweight one. A typical blind has many layers when folded up and a thick interlining would create a lot of bulk.

      Another option to not have interlining but replace the lining with a thermal one. Although this doesn’t have the same insulating qualities as interlining it has more than a typical lining and you shouldn’t have the shrinkage or bulk problems.

    • Interlining doesn’t cut out much light, so you will need blackout blinds or you could use blackout lining on the curtains.

  7. Hi,

    I am making floor length curtains for large windows (not double glazed!) and I want to use bump interlining which I’ve not used before. My local fabric shop also sells something called thermal lining, how is this different to bump and should I also use it? A lot of air comes through my window.

    I also wanted to french pleat the curtain, would the bump be too think for this once there is regular lining and buckram involved as well?

    Thanks in advance

    • Hello Amy,

      Thermal lining is used as an alternative to normal lining and is very different to bump. It is similar to blackout lining with a thin coating on the back. If you are worried about draughts it would probably help with the insulating, but I haven’t actually used bump and thermal lining together so I don’t know how well it works.

      Pleating bump is very difficult because of the thickness. You could try a mock up of the pleat to see if you and your sewing machine would cope. An alternative to French pleats could be double pleats as you don’t need to stitch so many layers together to form the pleat.

      Kate

      • Thank you, I agree re. the double pleat. I am concerned that the thermal lining would make the curtain a bit stiff. I think I will make a decision once I have the fabric and bump together in the shop and can hold them up together!

        Kind regards,
        Amy

  8. Hi, I just wanted to say I am starting a curtain project and have found your guide and comments very useful. So thank you for being so generous with your time. Rachael

  9. Hi Kate,
    I am trying to make some small curtains to help insulate my basement in Williamstown NJ. I was wondering how you sew the interlining to the curtain.

    • Hello Julian,

      I don’t think I can explain here but I have found a couple of resources that may help.

      The first is a video on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUwhtDLdGlc. It’s good for showing some information such as the stitches but unfortunately doesn’t go into much detail about getting started.
      The second is a book called “The encyclopaedia of Curtains” by Catherine Merrick and Rebecca Day. This is a very good book that explains many aspects of soft furnishings including making interlined curtains, and I highly recommend it.

      Sorry I can’t be more helpful, I’m thinking that may be in he future I’ll do a tutorial on making interlined curtains to go with this post.
      Kate

  10. Hi Im doing a project of sheer curtains open swags and side panels. I cut my swags on a bias and have lined them.I am using interlining for the side panels. Im wondering if I need to use interlining for the swags as well. Thanks. ZC

    • Hello ZC,

      Normally you would interline the swags if you interline the tails (side panels for your project) so that all the elements have the same properties.

      I also recommend cutting the interlining on the bias but you don’t need to take it into the points to reduce the bulk in the folds. I normally cut the interlining in a straight line from he lower edge to the top following the shaping of the folds. If you are able to get hold of a copy of “The Encyclopaedia of Curtains” by Catherine Merrick and Rebecca Day you will see good instructions for interlining swags.

  11. Hi, I am about to make some linen curtains – the material is very good quality and I do not want to make any errors. The curtains will be 9 feet long and have a 6 inch pencil pleat header tape. I have only ever used blackout thermal lining before but now I have read your site I believe that I should reconsider my normal method of construction. Which method would you use in order to gain the best result?

    • I always make curtains using the hand sewing method. That is when you hand stitch the hem and side turnings in place then hand stitch the linings in place. If you use the machine stitched “bagging” method I find that the fabrics don’t necessarily sit well together and sometimes you can get puckering in the seam. Your curtains are going to be quite long and hand sewing will give you more control while making them.

      You can still use blackout thermal lining in hand sewn curtains, and if you are interested in interlining them as well I would recommended sewing by hand.

      If you are unsure about sewing the curtains by hand there are many books and videos that can show you. I have mentioned it before but “The Encyclopaedia of Curtains” by Catherine Merrick and Rebecca Day gives very good instructions on making hand made curtains.

  12. Hi
    I am making some curtains for the first time and the fabric has diamond weave. When i hold it up to the window the reverse side is visable making the curtains look stripped. I don’t want to use black out lining as I have got a sheen linning that matches perfectly. Would interlining block out the light enough?

    • Interlining may help to hide the stripes, but it doesn’t block out all of the light so you may still have the problem.

      Are you able to get a sample of interlining and hold it up to the light with the fabric to see how much light gets through?

      A possible solution would be to sandwich blackout lining between the fabric and the lining (as you would interlining) so that the light is blocked but you still have your lining that matches.

  13. Hi wanting to make Roman blinds but need them to look luxurious and insulate well also. What’s best interlining wise ?? Can you help ? Thanks

    • Kristina,

      If you want your roman blinds to look luxurious and insulate well bump may be the best interlining to use. However because you have multiply layers when the blind is pulled up, you will find that bump will cause the blind to stand out from the wall. If the blind is long this could be several inches.

      I would recommend trying to fold up pieces of the fabric, interlining and lining together to the number of folds you expect to have in the blind and seeing if the thickness is a problem. If you think bump is too thick, domett also give good insulation although not such a luxurious look.

  14. I have just had some curtains made. The material is from a reputable company they are lined and have a double pleat heading. My problem is that the edging is wavy and looks very untidy. I wondered if I lined them with interfacing would they hang better especially the edges that you pull together. Regards Cherry

    • Interlining the leading edge may solve the problem but I’m don’t think you can add it after the curtains have been made. When making interlined curtains you insert the interlining at the beginning so it would be difficult adding it once the pleats have been sewn.

      Could you go back to whoever made the curtains? Its possible that the edges have been poorly constructed which is why they look untidy.

      • Thank you very much for your advice. It is very much appreciated. I feel a bit uncomfortable about going back to the lady that made them but that is exactly what my husband said.Thanks again.

  15. Hi I bought a pair of beautiful teal coloured curtains off eBay but sadly not thick enough for my draughty sash windows. Is it possible to get them retrospectively fitted with blanket/bump lining by a reputable person or would it spoil them being unpicked? They are a lovely colour and I don’t get a lot of time to search the shops to get curtains custom made.

    • Kelly,

      Without seeing the curtains I couldn’t say for definite but it may be possible. I have in the past taken a pair of ready made curtains and re-made them with interlining, they had to be shortened which helped with the marks left by the previous stitching as I could trim the marks off.

      One thing to be aware of is that it can take as long to retrospectively fit interlining as it is to make interlined curtains from the scratch, so be prepared for the cost to be about the same.

  16. Can I use 180 g/meter poly/viscose interlining material for a large pair of curtains to be used in a lounge bay window. The curtain material is a cotton/rayon mix, and it is quite heavy. I have been advised to make them with a heavy (x2.5) gather.

    • Without seeing the fabric I can’t give you a definite answer. However, from what you have said as the poly/viscose interlining is lighter than a cotton one it would help with the weight of the curtains if the fabric is quite heavy.

  17. I have some plain cream/off white 100% linen to make into 2 x Roman blinds and one pair of curtains ( which I want to be ruffle top, quite simple & peaceful effect) for a bedroom. The linen is open weave with a lovely texture and lightweight. I intend to wash and pre shrink it. I have some samples of linings/interlinings etc. and am getting stuck. Advice would be welcome. I want an element of thermal insulation ( wood frames but double glazing) and an element of blackout since this linen is quite translucent ( but it doesn’t need to be 100% blackout).
    What would you recommend me to use please ?
    Never made Roman blinds before and only a little experience making curtains but am reasonably competent and have a guide book.

    • Are you thinking of using interlining just for thermal reasons? if so a 3-pass blackout lining has some thermal properties and using it on it’s own may be enough for your purposes. The curtains and blinds would be easier to make and without the interlining and the folds of the blinds wouldn’t be too thick. I would however check that you can’t see the back of the lining through the linen if the weave is quite open.

      Kate

  18. I am hoping to remake my full length Blendworth fabric curtains adding interlining and a goblet heading. Each curtain is one & a half width so the interlining would need to be joined. Presumably the best way to do this is to overlap the interlining & handsew maybe using a herringbone stitch. Is this the best way? Also, would the interlining have to go right to the top of the curtains or finish just under the buckram – baring in mind that I wish to have a goblet heading. Would value your expertise.

    • Some curtain makers join interlining by overlapping and hand sewing, but I usually use a lapped seam with a long straight machine stitch. I also use a walking foot on the machine as this helps stop the seam from puckering.

      I recommend that you take the interlining to the top of the curtain, level with the top edge of the buckram. If you finished the interlining below the buckram there wouldn’t be anything to hold it in place after the pleats have been sewn and you may find that it starts to drop.

  19. Hi, I have just accidentally ordered some pre-shrunk interlining online instead of ordinary cotton lining for some curtains I am going to make. I didn’t realise my mistake until it arrived. Instead of having the hassle and expense of sending it back, I am wondering if I can use it as if it were an ordinary lining? I understand about the insulation and better hanging qualities of using interlining and lining but am not confident enough to deal with 3 layers of fabric and don’t have the time to do all the hand stitching required. Would it work ok if I just used it like an ordinary lining?

    • I don’t think you can substitute interlining for lining as they are very different. Interlining has a brushed finish and you will find the fibres will get everywhere without being held behind the lining.

      If you’re not comfortable dealing with three layers you could have a separate loose lining but I must admit that I’ve not come across this before.

  20. Thank you Kate for all your useful advice, I have read all the above Q & A which have covered all of my concerns. I have only ever machine made curtains, lined without interlining. I now feel I can tackle my new project of interlining my new curtains but am not looking forward to all the hand stitching 😕. Thanks again

    • Thank you for your kind words, and good luck with your project.

      I find hand stitching quite therapeutic and sometimes dread getting the sewing machine out.

  21. Hi, thank you for all the information, found it very helpful as a novice. I was planning on making some interlined curtains using a duvet cover, for matching purposes. Would you advise interlining such thin fabric.
    Many thanks J

    • Although unusual, there shouldn’t be a problem making interlined curtains out of a duvet cover. The interlining will help bulk out the thin fabric.

  22. Thank you very much for all of this valuable information. I am planning on making drapery for my dinning room. I live where the temps in the winter time often are many degrees below zero. I thought 100% cotton bump would be advised, however, I am finding it difficult to locate 100% cotton bump. Mostly is is 80% cotton/20% other. In a previous email, you mentioned pre-shrinking the bump. Would this be completed by washing by hand or in a machine? I am also planning on making a roman shade in the kitchen over the kitchen sink, and wanted to interline with the bump. Please advise if I should use a different product in the kitchen. Thank you very much.

    • If you’re having trouble finding 100% cotton bump, the cotton/other combination should give you the same results. What you need to avoid is the synthetic (polyester/viscose) type of bump as this handles differently. I wouldn’t recommend pre-shrinking the bump yourself, some stockists supply interlining which has been pre-shrunk as part of the manufacturing process.
      After saying you should avoid using a synthetic bump for you drapes, it would be suitable for your roman shade in the kitchen. Synthetic interlinings tend to be quite rigid which wouldn’t be a problem for a roman shade, it’s also unlikely to shrink in the damp atmosphere.

  23. Hi Kate,
    I am about to make interlined curtains. Can you tell me if at the sides of the curtain, does the interlining go to the edge of curtain fabric and you fold over both layers and hand stitch or do you have the interlining only up to where you fold over the curtain fabric. I know at the hem it goes to first fold line of the hem. Also does it make it very thick at heading if using 6 inch pencil pleats. Should you have two or two and a half times track length?
    Thanks in advance, Pam

    • Yes, the interlining is folded over with the curtain fabric along the sides. For information I don’t press the turnings until the interlining is in place as this gives a nice rounded edge. Along the top edge I trim the interlining to the finished length to reduce the bulk in the heading. I can’t really advise about using 6″ pencil pleats as the thickness is also determined by the fabric.

      Regarding the fullness between two and two and a half should be fine. It usually depends on the length of the track and how it fits in with the number of drops required.

      Kate

  24. Thank you for your very helpful page! It’s amazing!
    I am making some full length curtains in medium weight linen, and they need to have blackout lining. I have found some fairly thick but fluid blackout, but I also want them to have some lightweight domette so they hang well (it isn’t needed for insulation). With a lining as well that would give me four layers. Will that be too much? I was hoping for pinch pleats. Will I have to leave out the domette?
    Many thanks

    • Sorry for not getting back sooner, I’ve only just seen your message.

      Hopefully this isn’t too late but, if you’re using blackout lining you don’t need a lining as well. Usually you have the face fabric then interlining (lightweight domette in yourcase) then the lining. If you’re not keen on seeing the blackout lining then I would suggest not using the domette and treating the blackout lining as an interlining.

  25. Thank you Kate for your very helpful page. I’m going to make some curtains that are pure linen. Which interlining would you recommend? And should I put the interlining all the way to the top as I’m going to use eyelets or stop below the eyelets? Many thanks.

    • The normal recommendation is to use natural fibre with natural fibre, so I would suggest you use a cotton interlining, probably domett, with linen.

      I would put interlining to the top of the curtain otherwise you may get a line where it ends. I would also recommend securing the top of the interlining to the fabric with some herringbone stitches along the inside top edge to stop it dropping with the weight once it’s hanging. Other heading have stitches that support the interlining in the pleats or tape but with eyelets you are relying on the eyelets only.

  26. I have just found your web page which is full of great advice – I am making silk curtains for my patio doors which requires 2 widths for each curtain. I am using bump interlining for the first time which I am finding a little tricky as the bump interlining keeps stretching in all directions and when I have stitched the selvage edges together there is a lot of puckering so i am finding it very difficult to get a straight edge to sew to the curtains to the top edge and do the interlocking stitch and get it to lay flat = any advise would be great.

    • Bump is not that easy to work with and I avoid it whenever I can.

      With regards to sewing the selvedge’s together, I use a lapped seam (with only one line of stitching) and a walking foot. The lapped seam reduces bulk and a walking foot stops the layers from moving. If your machine doesn’t have a walking foot I would suggest either lots of pins and take it slow, or I know some curtain makers hand stitch the seams but I must admit I’ve never done this.

      Getting a straight edge with bump is quite difficult, the weave hardly ever runs straight. I usually let the fabric relax on the table and then take a perpendicular line between the two selvedge’s. If they don’t seem to be parallel try to find a line with good fit.

      I hope that helps and don’t let the bump win.

  27. What an informative website! Thank you. 👍I wonder if it would work to use polyester wadding sandwiched between curtain and backing to give extra insulation? Has anyone tried this? Thanks

    • I must admit I’ve not heard of this. I would think that using wadding changes the drape of the curtains and I’m not sure if some sort of quilting would be needed to keep the fibres from moving too much.

  28. Very informative website indeed. Thanks !!

    Someone told me that in order to improve thermal insulation on their patio door curtains, they had added 300GSM Domette interlinings that were not stitched as an interlining to the curtain but an additional layer that hangs behind the curtain. I was told that the advantage of this approach were,
    1. The same domette interlining can be reused when curtains are changed (winter to summer curtains or replace old curtains with new)
    2. It makes it easier to wash/dryclean or store curtains as the domette can be easily removed.

    Before I embark on this project, I would love to hear your expert views on the above.

    I was told that the way to attach this extra domette layer is by using a hook strip at the back of the curtain. I’m thinking if a strip of Velcro would do the same and hold the weight of a 300gsm domette?

    • I agree with the advantages of a separate layer, however because of the amount of loose fibres that come off interlining it’s not something I would do.

      If you were to do this I’m not sure that Velcro would be substantial enough to hold the interlining in place. If the curtains have a heading tape you could use 1″ tape on the top of the interlining which can then be hooked to the heading tape on the curtains. I remember my Mum doing this with separate linings.

      • Thanks Kate.

        Is Domett better for achieving thermal insulation than the so called thermal lining available on the market?

        Thanks in advance.

        • In my opinion, yes.

          A typical thermal lining is about the same weight as normal lining with a coating that gives it the thermal properties. Domett is almost like having a blanket in your curtains, and you’re also adding an extra layer.

  29. I want to make some eyelet curtains using Rufflette Solar tape and Jupiter rings. The material is polyester and I would like to interline them. Would I use Sarille interlining, as the main fabric is synthetic, and would I end it to below the eyelet ring. Any suggestions gratefully received. Many thanks

    • From what you have said, I think Sarille would be suitable for your curtains. Providing that you’re not using a thick interlining I would take it to the top of the curtain, that way the eyelets hold it in place and you don’t get a line where it stops.

  30. I am just making my first pair of interlined curtains and am not sure which way the fluffy side of the lining should face. is it into the room or orientated out to the road? To be honest there is not much difference between either side of the lining as both seem quite fluffy.
    Thank you
    Pam Lidbury

    • If there seems to be a slightly fluffier side I usually face it onto the fabric side (facing into the room) That way the raised fibres will enhance the fabric and you shouldn’t get the texture of the weave showing as much. You’re right though, there isn’t much difference and most of the time I don’t worry about it.

  31. I’m glad and relieved to have found this post full of good advices and knowledge!
    At my country it is not as common as yours to interline curtains (just for aesthetic results)… I have got a heavy silk fabric, and need to. The question is that here there aren’t various kinds of interlining, and my intention is to buy on line.
    I have doubts regarding static compatibility between silk and cotton (i’ve heard that silk repels it), silk and saril…
    Which one(s) would you recommend to have a perfect finish?
    Thank you,
    Teresa Herrero

    • Without seeing your fabric it’s difficult to make a recommendation. I would always try to use the same type of fibres together (natural with natural and synthetic with synthetic)so using a cotton interlining with silk would probably be best.

      As you’re intending to purchase the interlining online, try to get some samples from the supplier before ordering and see how the different types work together.

  32. I have recently purchased some silk fabric to make curtains for my bedroom. They Will have a 10″ triple pleat, with a decorative beaded leading edge. I intend on using Domett interlining and a blackout lining. I have never worked with silk before and was wondering if this is the best way to interline the curtains and if so what weight of Domett should I use? Thank you so much in advance for your advice.

    • Generally a normal weight domett would be appropriate for the curtains you’ve described. A lightweight domett wouldn’t be heavy enough especially with a blackout lining.

      However, if you’re after the thick sumptuous look with a thin raw silk type fabric I would recommend using bump. It is a little harder to work with but the end results are worth it.

  33. I’ve never used interlining before, but have been advised to, so am considering it for my up-coming project. I’ve found some synthetic interlining, but I can’t determine if I should be using cotton or domett,or if synthetic is good enough. My curtain fabric is cotton and I have a blackout lining. I don’t want them to be too heavy, but I do want them to hang nicely and be able to dry-clean them. Any advise much appreciated.

    • As I don’t know your curtain fabric it’s difficult giving you advise, but here are my thoughts.

      Typically you would use similar types of fabric together, so cotton curtain fabric should be used with cotton domett. However, if weight is an issue and you are intending to dry-clean the curtains you may find using a synthetic interlining more appropriate. The drape of curtains interlined with a synthetic interlining can be an issue so my recommendation would be to get as big a sample of the interlining and lining as possible, layer them with the fabric and see how they work together.

  34. Kate –

    I am so happy to have found your site! I am getting ready to make curtains for a basement patio door. I am going to use a cotton fabric, bump interlining, blackout fabric and then a sateen lining so it will all be quite thick. I want the insulation and blackout properties as it’s below grade. I will hand sew most of it and think that it will be so thick, my only option on top will be a double pleat. What are your thoughts?

    • I would be very nervous about having four layers, one of which is bump. It would make everything very difficult to handle.

      Do you need a blackout lining as well as a sateen lining? usually the blackout replaces the sateen and provided you use the smooth side out (furry side in) the curtains shouldn’t look too different.

      If you are going to use both linings, I’d question using bump. Even if the main fabric is a thin cotton you may find that the thickness using domett instead of bump, together with the two linings, enough.

      I agree that the heading should be as simple as possible. Forming triple pleats would be quite difficult, double pleats less so. Have you thought of cartridge pleats that don’t require any additional sewing once the pleats have been sewn.

  35. Kate
    I have just purchased bonded twill lining to add as backing to curtains and to acting as interface to thermal curtains behind for added insulation to the single glazed windows of a caravan I have .
    Having not done a project like this before I am unsure if the smooth side faces into the curtain or the thermal lining. Hence I currently have a curtain each lined both ways and cannot seem to find info
    Thank you

    • I’m not sure if it really matters which way round the bonded lining should face, either way would have the same thermal properties. I would probably put the smooth side to face the lining as I think it would enhance the curtain fabric more with the fluffy side facing . If you have curtains with the lining both ways just choose which way you think is better.

      • Many thanks for taking the time to reply. I have found advice and view very helpful and reassuring and confidence building. It has also made me look at curtains with a new perspective and you are right they do hang better with rough side facing into the curtain x

  36. I am making a double sided door curtain, which my customer would like interlined. The fabric is an expensive beautiful heavy linen. I did something similar for myself a few years ago( though with lining not double fabric) and the heavy linen pulled and is a mess. Would it be best not to interline it as the fabric is much heavier than the interlining and I am uncertain of how to attach it inside the curtain except at the top heading. If I do this I am sure the interlining will come away from the leading edge when the curtain is drawn. Have you some advice please. Jane

    • I must admit I agree that it may be better in the long term not to have the interlining. You could attach the interlining across the width of the curtain using an interlocking stitch which may help with the keeping the edges together but the small stitches may start to show if the Linen fabric starts to pull.

  37. Hello
    I wanted to have curtains to match a duvet cover but they are not made. I came up with the idea of buying an extra duvet & make the curtains from that. The only problem that they would be be as thick as curtain fabric. I thought that perhaps interlining would bulk it a bit. The only problem is that the background is white. Do they manufacture white interlining? Any suggestions please.

  38. I’m about to make some interlined curtains, each one being double width. I therefore also need to join the bump interlining, but am concerned that sewing the two pieces together in the conventional way will result in a ‘lumpy’ curtain at the seam. Should I just butt the edges together and hand sew them with a cross stitch?
    Many thanks!

    • You are correct, sewing a conventional right sides together seam will be quite bulky. Some curtain makers hand stitch the drops of interlining together but I prefer using a lapped seam. I normally overlap the edges by about an inch then machine sew a single line of stitching with a long straight stitch.

  39. Hi Kate

    I have found 2 rolls of what I believe to be a interlining stored away , I am not sure what it is and wonder if you may be able to help please . It is grey and thick with a 98 cm width, the reverse of the fabric looks to be iron on , however it is quite sticky to touch . Do you think this is a interlining that I can use or is the fact it is sticky a problem . Grateful for any response
    Thank You Yvonne

    • Yvonne, unfortunately I don’t think the fabric you have is interlining. I’m not aware of 98cm wide interlining and although you can get bonded interlining the bonding is done as part of the manufacturing process. Could it be something like fusible fleece?

      • Hi , Thank You for your response.
        On further investigation into the roll I did find a label from a Everbond Interlinings LTD, the label looks really old and the text looked like it has been typed so I am guessing really really old . There was no information to let me know what this is though it does state to use within 15 months of receipt , I think that is maybe why it is sticky ? . I have put it in the skip now as I think whatever it was has been ruined by the damp . Thanks again for taking the time to respond .

  40. Hi Kate,
    I am about to launch into making curtains (many years since I last did this!) for my daughter’s new flat, which has very big, old windows – 3.3m drop and nearly 3m width. Her budget is tight, so we’ve been looking at fairly inexpensive fabrics – lightweight polyester or cotton/polyester mix. I am keen to have a go at interlining the curtains, both for appearance and to reduce draughts – could you please advise on type/weight of interlining which you think would be best?
    Thank you in advance,
    Jane

    • Without being able to see the fabrics your thinking about it’s difficult to make a suggestion. If costs are a major concern you could use sarille as this is much cheaper than domette and you seem to be looking at synthetic fabrics, it would also help with the weight of the rather large curtains. I would recommend trying to get samples of the different weights to see how they work with the fabrics, try Merrick & Day as they supply different weights of sarille and I think you can ask for a sample pack.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *